Link (Legend of Zelda) Amigurumi free pattern

On my journeys across the world of the web, I ran into a Japanese language pattern for the most adorable little Link I’ve ever seen!  Of course, I had to make a little Link for myself, so I printed out the pattern and set out to work.  When I was done and I shared it with my friends, they were all astounded.  Even my mom is thinking about making one, and so I am bringing the pattern to you in English for what is to my knowledge the first time.  The author, Becchin, has graciously allowed me to do so.  Because this is his pattern built from the ground up, I ask that you please respect his rights as the creator and do not sell the pattern or the finished product, especially since this falls under the category of fanart.  Furthermore, please do not repost the pattern anywhere (feel free to link me or Becchin’s page if you want!).  I don’t claim ownership over the pattern or Link; I’m just translating it so you can make a Link and take him on your own adventures!  (I am the original translator though.)  If you want to visit Becchin’s page to see some pictures of the process, click here.  This page is the “person core” page which Link’s pattern is based on.  Pictures of Link are here, and his hat pattern is hereUpdate 6/13/11: I’m overwhelmed by the response I’ve gotten for this translation!  I’m so happy that other people enjoy this pattern 🙂  Stephanie at All About Ami created some accessories for Link from her own patterns, so please check them out here; they’re fantastic!  As always, if you have any corrections please let me know; I’ve already been made aware of a few but I want to make sure that the pattern will yield the results I said it will.  Thanks!

This is the Link amigurumi I made myself!

Well then, let’s get started~!  By the way, it took me 2 days to make Link, just like Becchin said in his 【ニコニコ動画】【あみぐるみ】リンクを編んでみた【ゼルダの伝説】”>video (but I think you’ll need a NicoNico Douga account to see it…sorry :< )

Materials: E/4 crochet hook (3.50mm), 2 eyes (I used safety eyes, but I’m sure if you’re willing to use buttons or embroider eyes that would also work), White, Aran (I used this for Link’s skin color), Green, Yellow, and Brown yarn (all worsted weight; I just used Red Heart brand), and polyester stuffing such as Polyfil.

It’s important to note that all parts will be worked in rows rather than a spiral, so don’t forget to do a sl st to close each row!

By the way, I’m an American so I’m using the terminology associated with being on this side of the pond among English speakers.  🙂

Ball Joint & Upper Body (this will later become the base that the head will turn on–it’s a removable pivoting head)

Row 1: Crochet 6 sc into the middle of a magic ring with Aran colored yarn. (6)

Row 2: Inc all the way around (12)

Row 3: [sc, inc]* Repeat * all the way around (18)

Row 4: sc all the way around (18)

Row 5: [sc, dec]* Repeat * all the way around (12)

Row 6: [sc, dec]* Repeat * all the way around (8)

Row 7: sc all the way around (8)

Row 8: [sc, inc]* Repeat * all the way around (12) On the very last stitch of this row, switch colors from Aran to Green.  This marks the beginning of the upper body.

Row 9: [sc, inc]* Repeat * all the way around (18)

Rows 10-13: sc all the way around.  On the last sc of Row 12, change colors to Brown. (18)

Shoes (Make 2)

Shoe tops

To begin, ch 10 and then sl st to connect the loop on your hook and the first ch you made with Brown yarn.  (In effect, you are creating a ring out of these 10 sts.)

Row 1: sc around (10)

Row 2: sc around (10)

Row 3: sc 4, inc 2, sc 4 (12)

Row 4: sc 5, inc 2, sc 5 (14)

Row 5: sc 6, inc 2, sc 6 (16)

Shoe soles (Brown yarn)

Row 1: Ch 4. Skipping the ch closest to but not on the hook, sc into the next chain on the left side of the v made. Then, sc into the next chain on the left side.  You should be left with a single chain at this point.  Sc twice into the left side of the chain and then once into the right side.  Then, moving towards your starting point, sc into the next chain on the right side and then the last chain twice.  Sl st to close row. (8)

Row 2: Inc all the way around.  Sl st to close row. (16)

Attaching the top and sole

Take a length of yarn and go through both loops of an sc on the wider end of the shoe top and both loops of an sc on the sole.  Sc these together and repeat all the way around.  Then, do the same on the other shoe.

Leg (Make 2)

Row 1: Sc 5 into magic ring with white yarn. (5)

Row 2: Sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1 (7)

Row 3: Sc all the way around (7)

Row 4: Repeat Row 3. (7)

Row 5: Sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1 (10)

Row 6: Sc around (10)

Once you’ve finished the first leg and cut the yarn at a suitable location, repeat for the second leg.  This time, after finishing the leg, don’t cut the yarn off.  Instead, go through both loops of an sc on either side of the ending point and then both loops of an sc on the other leg. Sc all 4 loops together.  From there, sc around the legs as you would usually do, moving clockwise from the join all the way around.  There should be 18 sts that you will sc normally and the join should count for 1 bringing you to a total of 19.  Change to green yarn on the last sc of the row. Sc around, ignoring the join (18).  Do not cut off the yarn when you have closed this row.

Next, you are going to be attaching the ball joint/upper body to the legs, so please stuff these to your liking at this point.  After that, sc the two parts together (same as you did for the shoes, except one sc of the upper body and one sc of the legs in this case) using the green yarn attached to the legs.  After that, sc around counterclockwise for one row and then as you would normally for another row.  Finish the row and cut the yarn.


Row 1: Sc 8 into magic ring using Aran yarn. (8)

Row 2: Inc all the way around (16)

Row 3: [sc, inc]* Repeat * all the way around (24)

Row 4: sc all the way around. (24)

Row 5: Repeat row 4. (24)

Row 6: Repeat row 4. (24)

Row 7: [sc, dec] Repeat * all the way around (16)

Row 8: sc all the way around (16)

Row 9: [sc, inc] Repeat * all the way around (24)

Row 10: Sc counterclockwise all the way around (24) What this technique will do is make it so the “right side” of the crochet switches sides.  The rows you made so far will actually be on the inside of the head and function as a place for the body joint to go into, thus making the head pivotable.

Row 11: (go back to crocheting clockwise) [sc 2, inc]* Repeat * all the way around (32)

Row 12: sc all the way around (32)

Row 13: Repeat row 12 (32)

Row 14: Sc 7, dec 4, sc 2, dec 4, sc 7 (24)

Row 15: Sc 6, inc 12, sc 6 (36)

Row 16: Sc all the way around (36)

Row 17: [sc 4, dec]* Repeat * all the way around (30)

Row 18: [sc 3, dec]* Repeat * all the way around (24)

At this point, I’d recommend stuffing the head and placing eyes if you’re going to do safety eyes.

Row 19: [sc 2, dec]* Repeat * all the way around (18)

Row 20: [sc, dec]* Repeat * all the way around (12)

Row 21: dec all the way around (6)

Arms (Make 2)

Row 1: Sc 6 into magic ring with Brown yarn. (6)

Row 2: inc all the way around (12)

Row 3: dec, sc 8, dec (10)

Row 4: dec, sc 6, dec (8)

Row 5: dec, sc 4, dec (6) Switch to White yarn on the last st of this row.

Rows 6-8: sc all the way around (6)

Sleeve (make 2)

Row 1: sc 6 into one arm where you want the bottom of the sleeve to start.  Start so that the proper part of the arm you want facing out will be covered by the sts of the sleeve. Then ch 1 and turn for the next row. (6)

Row 2: sc 6.  Ch 1 and turn. (6)

Row 3: sc, dec, dec, sc (4)

Row 4: dec, dec (2)

Bind off and sew each arm to body.


Row 1: sc 6 into magic ring with Yellow. (6)

Row 2: inc all the way around. (12)

Row 3: [sc, inc]* Repeat * all the way around (18)

Row 4: [sc 2, inc]* Repeat * all the way around (24)

Using sc, attach to the head in yellow yarn.  From this point, choose a point where you want Link’s hair to start on the side of his head and sc around to the point where you think it should stop on the other side (as for me, I did about 14 sc).  Then, do a turning chain and sc back (if you want, ch 2 and do double crochet instead to make it easier on yourself.)  Repeat until you get his hair to the desired length.  For the longer bang (fringe) pieces I went a little farther forward on his head and chained about 8 sts going away from his scalp from one of the sc sts created when I attached the hair to his scalp, then considered one a turning chain and did sc all the way back so there were 7 sc sts.  I then went forward to the next sc and went through it, and did sc all the way to the bottom.  Becchin didn’t give instructions for this, so this is all my fiddling around.  To make Link’s short bangs, I threaded a yarn needle with yellow yarn and stitched it on as I saw fit.

Ears (Make 2)

Sc 5 into magic ring and arrange in half-circle shape.  Attach to side of head.

Pointy Hat

Row 1: Sc 6 into magic ring with Green yarn (6)

Row 2: inc, dec, dec, inc (6)

Row 3: Repeat row 2 (6)

Row 4: inc 2, sc 2, inc 2 (10)

Row 5: inc 2, sc 6, inc 2 (16)

Row 6: inc 2, sc 10, inc 2 (18)

Row 7: inc 4, sc 10, inc 4 (26)

Row 8: inc 4, sc 18, inc 4 (34)

Row 9: sc all the way around (34)

Row 10: inc 4, sc 26, inc 4 (42)

Row 11: sc all the way around (42)

Row 12: inc 2, sc 38, inc 2 (46)

Row 13: sc all the way around (46)

Row 14: dec 2, sc 40, dec 2 (42)

Rows 15-19: sc all the way around (42)

Row 20: sc all the way around counterclockwise (42)

Row 21: sc all the way around clockwise (42)

You’ve finished!  LINK GET!!  Well, I hope you enjoyed it.  Comment if you used it (pictures are love!) or if there’s anything that needs to be changed about the pattern.

May 27, 2010. Uncategorized.


  1. Brandon Schaffer replied:

    It’s cute I want one!

    • Anny replied:

      the arm instructions are confusing. i start off with white yarn but then on round five i switch to white yarn?

  2. Eddie Figueroa replied:

    I’m somewhat of a legend of zelda fanboy, and I must say this has inspired me to start crocheting.

  3. Jewelz50 replied:

    I made this, and put your website address as the pattern on Ravelry. This is a good pattern, just had a bit of problem with the hair, but winged it, and the hat which turned out way too big. I just frogged back and started the decreases way way earlier on it. Nicely done, thank you. – Julie

    • tanoshimou replied:

      I’m glad that you were able to understand it alright! Thank you for taking the time to read the pattern and comment. 🙂 I meant to add some pictures of how I did the hair, so I will definitely be putting those up soon.

  4. Jewelz50 replied:

    Oh, there’s pics there too. thanks again!

  5. mark replied:

    Hi. I’m new to amigurumi. What do you mean all parts will be worked in rows rather than in a spiral?

    • tanoshimou replied:

      Hi! The only difference between rows and spirals is that at the end of every row, you do a slip stitch to connect the last stitch in the row to the first stitch you did. So if we start at the beginning, row 1, you would do 6 single crochets into the magic ring, and then a slip stitch to connect the last stitch you just did to the first in the row. All it’s doing is creating a discrete unit of stitches that is uniform all the way around. It’s kind of like that children’s toy with a bunch of plastic rings that you pile on top of each other–each row is like a plastic ring, as opposed to a spiral which is not a discrete unit and just winds around and around all the way through like a metal spring. The reason we want to make rows is that it will allow for a uniform appearance all the way around the piece, and stacking all those rows makes a shape that looks the same all the way around when you turn it. It makes more even looking spheres, for one.
      I hope that’s what you were looking for! If it isn’t, do let me know. Good luck crocheting Link!

  6. Anne replied:

    Hi what an awesome Link. i was just wondering if i’m suppose to ch 1 after i slip stitch at the end of the row before starting the next row. Also what do you mean by crocheting clock wise and counterclock wise? do i turn the piece around or do i work backwards into the piece? any help would be great .thank again for translating and posting this awesome Link pattern ~Anne~

    • tanoshimou replied:


      Yes; you should ch 1 after you slip stitch to start each new row. Clockwise is just the direction you go in when you are sticking the hook from the outside face of the piece into the middle. You turn the piece to create a new stitch in the same direction that a clock goes. So, if you want to work counterclockwise, you should stick the hook from the inside of the face to the outside, and as you make every sc you will be turning the piece in the opposite direction that you would normally. If it helps at all to see some pictures, here is Becchin’s link to the how-to page on the technique. I hope that helps! Please let me know if it doesn’t.

      Thanks for the compliment and for checking out the pattern!


  7. Anne replied:

    Hi, thanks for the help. i checked out the link.i think it’ll help. i can’t wait to see Link finished. thanks again ~Anne~

  8. Rachel replied:

    Aww, he is so, so cute! I love Link. I just clicked over from Free Amigurumi patterns. I would love to link to him if you didn’t mind.

    • tanoshimou replied:

      By all means, please link to it! I’m really glad that you think he’s cute. 🙂 Thanks also for asking–I do appreciate it.

  9. Mandy replied:

    Oh, I loove this! My friend is the biggest fan of Link, she even went as him for NYAF. She’s gonna love this!
    Thanks so much!! 😀

  10. NIkki replied:

    i love this pattern. Could you post more pictures of the final product? I’d like to see it from more angles.

    • tanoshimou replied:

      Hi NIkki,

      Link is away guarding my dorm room right now, but when I get back to school I’ll post some more pictures.

  11. Anny replied:

    the arm instructions are confusing. i start off with white yarn but then on round five i switch to white yarn? help! :/

    • tanoshimou replied:

      Hi Anny,

      Sorry for the late reply; I haven’t had internet access for the last two weeks. That’s a typo; you should start out with brown and then on Round 5 switch to white. Thanks for bringing it to my attention! If anything else is unclear let me know.


  12. Nicole replied:

    Hiya, just wondering did you use the Super Saver Economy yarn from red heart?

  13. Katie Dehart replied:

    I love link and all the Legend of Zelda games! (at least the one’s I’ve played) I am such a nerd I gasped/squeaked when I saw this. I have to make it myself, it’s SO adorable!!

  14. Ryah replied:

    stuck on the body… am I supposed to fill it up? am I supposed to close it off? :/

    • tanoshimou replied:

      Have you stuffed the body yet? I think that you’re probably at the point where you attach the legs to the upper body, and if that’s the case, once you’ve stuffed Link take your crochet hook and stick it through one st of the top of the legs and one st on the bottom of the upper body, and then crochet that normally in single crochet. It’s kind of difficult to explain without seeing, so please check out this link (no pun intended). The thing you want to do is on the bottom half of the page. And the “wrong” sides should be together–that is, the two insides of the parts you are joining.

      I’m sorry to reply so late; let me know if there’s anything I can do!

  15. Web Design Schools Guide replied:

    […] Link: If you’re a Legend of Zelda fan, you’ll love making this adorable Link doll. […]

  16. Zelda Crochet: Little Link Amigurumi » Zelda News - Zelda Universe replied:

    […] Link (Legend of Zelda) Amigurumi Tags   Amigurumi, crochet, Legend of Zelda, link Sharing is Caring […]

  17. Jess replied:

    What size safety eyes did you use? By the way, this is sooooo cute!! ^^

    • tanoshimou replied:

      It’s quite late in the game for me to respond to this, and for that I apologize, but I used 8 mm eyes. Thanks for your comment and compliment!

  18. Mackena replied:

    I had a blast making this one and plan on doing his Zelda as well. I had to make a few changes and correction in the pattern in small spaces, like your count was off on the hat lines in a couple of places, but otherwise, your translation was pretty spot on. Thanks! This was fun and I’m really grateful to have found a pattern I liked so much!
    Here is a pic of mine:
    If that link doesn’t work, you can go to my blog above and it is there.

    • tanoshimou replied:

      Thanks for your comment, Mackena! I’m glad that you enjoyed making Link–I feel like he was too good not to bring to English speaking crocheters 🙂 Sorry that my count was off–you wouldn’t happen to remember where it was, would you?
      I love the way you did the hair on your Link too 😀

  19. Think Crafts Blog – Craft Ideas and Projects – CreateForLess » Blog Archive » 50 Free and Adorable Amigurumi Patterns replied:

    […] Link: If you’re a Legend of Zelda fan, you’ll love making this adorable Link doll. […]

  20. Stephanie replied:

    Hi Tanoshimou! Thank you so much for taking the time to translate Becchin’s pattern 🙂 I made my very own Link and posted step-by-step photos on my blog that others might find helpful here:

    I also made up my own pattern for Link’s Hylian shield, sword and sheath which can also be found on my blog here:

    Thanks again!

    • tanoshimou replied:

      You’re very welcome! I enjoyed looking at your accessories, and I really want to make some for my Link too 😀 And thanks for posting a step-by-step pattern, since I’m very lazy generally busy and it’s been a long time since I crocheted Link. If you’d like, I can edit my post to link to your accessories in the body, since I’m sure other people would like to find your instructions!

      • Stephanie replied:

        I’d be honoured if you linked your post to my accessories pattern 🙂 I’m sure many ppl around the world are so thankful to you for translating such a great pattern. Thanks for your reply!

  21. How-To: Amigurumi Link, from Legend of Zelda replied:

    […] This adorable amigurumi version of Link from the Legend of Zelda video games is a collaborative effort. First came this pattern for Link, which was written by Becchin, a Japanese amigurimi artist. It was then translated to English by Tanoshimou. […]

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